Voltage Appliance Repair Call 786-869-3888
Same-day dryer repair · Broward & Miami-Dade

Same-Day Dryer Repair.
Broward & Miami-Dade.

Not heating or drum not turning? One visit, fixed. Our techs arrive with parts in the van for every major brand — most dryer repairs finish in one visit.

Licensed & Insured Same-day service Parts & labor warranty
Dryer Repair by Voltage Appliance Repair
Dryer specialists
Today
Same-day · when available
Free
Service call with repair
7d
Open every day
24hr
Most calls handled in
Common dryer issues

Sound familiar? We see it daily.

If your dryer is doing any of these, don't wait for it to get worse. Same-day diagnostic, free service call when we do the repair, honest quote before any work starts.

Not heating at all
Takes too long to dry
Drum not turning
Vent issues or overheating
Thermostat failures
Won't start
Loud squealing noises
Brands we service

All major and luxury brands.

LGSamsungGEWhirlpoolKitchenAidMaytagBoschFrigidaire
Why Voltage

Real techs. Real trucks. Real parts.

Free

Service call with repair

No charge for the visit when you approve the repair. If you decide not to repair, the diagnostic is $75.

1x

One visit, usually

Common parts for every major brand are already on the truck.

7d

Open every day

Monday–Sunday. Your dryer breakdown does not wait for a weekday.

100%

Warrantied work

Parts and labor covered.

Service areas

Dryer Repair across Broward & Miami-Dade.

From the van · Dryer

What actually breaks in a dryer.

Most dryer calls come down to a short list. Heat problems trace to a failed heating element, an opened thermal fuse, or a cycling thermostat stuck open; on gas units it is the igniter, the flame sensor, or the gas valve coils. Noise almost always means a worn drive belt, idler pulley, drum rollers, or front glides. What people assume is broken but rarely is: the drive motor and the main control board. A drum that will not turn is far more often a snapped belt than a dead motor, and a dryer that quits mid cycle is usually a blocked vent tripping a safety, not a failed board. In South Florida the vent is the quiet culprit. Humid air and lint pack into long condo duct runs and garage installations that already sit in the heat, so the machine runs hot, trips its safeties, and cooks its own parts. What is genuinely finished: a cracked drum, a seized rear bearing on a welded drum, or a rusted through bulkhead.

Common problems we fix

Dryer symptoms, diagnosed honestly.

The exhaust duct is blocked or crushed, or the blower wheel has cracked at the hub and is slipping on the motor shaft. Either way the dryer still makes heat, but the moist air never leaves the drum, so the load bakes instead of drying. Code allows about 35 feet of four inch duct, minus five feet for every 90 degree elbow, and plenty of condo runs are near that limit before any lint builds up. We clear the full duct run, replace the blower wheel and any collapsed transition hose, then confirm real airflow at the outside hood before we leave. Blower wheels and vent materials ride on the van, so this normally wraps up in a single visit.
Restricted airflow drives the cabinet temperature past the high limit thermostat and the motor's own thermal overload, and both open until things cool down. If the one shot thermal fuse on the blower housing has already opened, the dryer stays dead. On Whirlpool built machines that fuse sits in the motor circuit, so nothing runs at all; on other brands it only kills the heat. We replace the opened fuse, cutoff, or thermostat, then clear the restriction that caused it, because a new fuse behind the same blocked vent opens again within a load or two. We check the blower housing and lint chute at the same time, since a packed housing raises temperature exactly the way a bad duct does.
The heating element coil has sagged and is touching its metal housing, so it shorts to ground the moment the element energizes. A sound element reads roughly 8 to 12 ohms end to end and nothing at all to the housing, so any continuity to that housing means the element is finished. On coastal and garage machines a corroded or arced terminal block behind the cord trips the breaker the same way. We replace the element assembly, or the terminal block and cord, and inspect every connection in that path for heat damage. If the wall receptacle itself is burned, that belongs to an electrician and we say so plainly instead of putting new parts on bad power.
The felt drum seal and the plastic front glides have worn through, so the drum rides metal on metal against the front bulkhead. A belt that is shedding rubber leaves its own marks, and a grooved roller lets the drum sit low enough to keep the contact going. We pull the front of the cabinet and replace the seal, glides, belt, and any grooved rollers together, since a new glide against a worn seal simply wears out again. Those are stock parts on the van, so the machine usually goes back together the same visit.
The centrifugal start switch built into the drive motor has burned contacts, so the motor never hands off to its run winding and drops out the moment you let go of the button. That switch is not sold separately, so the motor gets replaced, and the belt and idler go in while the machine is already open. Motors are carried less often than belts and fuses, so this one sometimes waits on an ordered part and a short return trip.
On electric dryers: a burned heating element, blown thermal fuse, or failed thermostat. On gas: the igniter or gas valve coils. A blocked vent can also trip the thermal fuse — we check airflow on every heat call so the fix lasts. Read the full guide
That's an airflow or sensor problem: a lint-clogged vent run (very common in Florida condos), a failing moisture sensor, or a weak heating element. Long dry times also mean high power bills — the repair usually pays for itself. Read the full guide
A snapped drive belt is the classic; a seized idler pulley or drum roller can also stop rotation. All are stocked parts and standard one-visit repairs.
Yes — overheating is the #1 dryer fire risk. It's almost always restricted airflow (clogged vent or lint chute) or a stuck cycling thermostat. Stop using the dryer and have it serviced promptly. Read the full guide
Either no heat, weak heat, or shutting off mid-cycle. Dryers have several thermostats and fuses in the heat circuit; we test the full chain with a meter and replace only what failed.
Door switch, start switch, thermal fuse, or the belt switch on some models. If the drum light comes on but the motor won't run, the diagnosis is typically fast and cheap.
Worn drum glides, a dry idler pulley bearing, or drum rollers at end of life. The squeal itself is harmless but the wear behind it will eventually stop the drum — cheaper to fix at the squeal stage.
What customers say

Trusted by neighbors across South Florida.

From the blog

Repair advice from our techs.

FAQ · Dryer Repair

Straight answers before you book.

Someone has to let us in and be there for the walk through at the end, but you are not stuck watching the repair. Have a clear path to the machine and about three feet of room behind it, and leave the wet load in the drum if it quit mid cycle so we can watch it fail the same way you did. If you call before 2 PM we can usually get a tech out the same day.
We work on LG, Samsung, GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Electrolux, and Frigidaire dryers, including the moisture sensor bars, heater assemblies, and control boards those models use, so the dealer is not your only option. Compact ventless condenser and heat pump units are covered too, down to the condensate pump and drain line, which is where those machines tend to fail in this humidity. Parts and labor are warrantied.
A dryer is the simplest machine in the laundry room, and almost everything that fails on one is a bolt in wear part, so the repair usually wins. The exception is damage to the parts nothing bolts to: a cracked drum, a rear bearing seized into a welded drum, or a bulkhead and cabinet rusted through in a damp garage. Age matters less than that condition, since an older dryer with a sound drum is worth a belt and a set of rollers while a newer stacked unit with a discontinued control board often is not.
Yes. Stacked and closet installed units get unstrapped, pulled, and reset as part of the job, which is routine work in the condos and townhomes here. Those installs are also where we find the crushed transition hose behind the machine and the long duct run through the ceiling that make a dryer take two and three cycles to finish a load.
Most dryer repairs are completed in one visit. Diagnostic takes 20-30 minutes; the fix itself depends on the issue, usually 1-2 hours.
Not when we do the repair — the visit is free if you approve the work. If you decide not to repair, the diagnostic is $75. You get an upfront quote either way.
Yes. We specialize in Sub-Zero, Viking, Thermador, Wolf, Miele, Bosch and other luxury brands — and built-in configurations.
We'll tell you honestly if replacement is the smarter move. No incentive to push repairs that don't make sense.
Yes — parts and labor. OEM parts where appropriate so the fix lasts.

Let's get it fixed today.

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Open 7 days · Mon–Fri 8a–8p · Sat–Sun 8a–5p
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