Question 1

What happens to the food while you work on the refrigerator?

Accepted Answer

Most of the time the fresh food side can stay loaded, since condenser, start relay, and water valve work happens at the back of the cabinet. Freezer work is different: reaching the evaporator, its fan, or the defrost parts means emptying the freezer shelves and taking off the rear panel, so have a cooler ready for the frozen items. Clearing a couple of feet in front of the unit helps too, because most of these jobs need it rolled out.

Question 2

My Sub-Zero cools in the freezer but not the refrigerator side. Is a built-in different from a regular fridge?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Many built-in Sub-Zero units cool each compartment separately, so one side can fail while the other stays cold, and the condenser sits behind the upper grille where it quietly loads up with dust instead of underneath the cabinet. We service Sub-Zero, Viking, True Residential, Bosch, LG, Samsung, GE, Whirlpool, and KitchenAid; the practical difference with built-ins is that model-specific pieces like gaskets and control boards are ordered to the serial number rather than carried on the van, and the parts and labor are warrantied either way.

Question 3

Is it worth repairing a refrigerator, or should I just replace it?

Accepted Answer

The dividing line is whether the failure sits inside the sealed refrigerant circuit or outside it. Everything outside it is bolt-in work that puts the unit back to normal service no matter what the sticker says: fan motors, defrost heaters and thermostats, thermistors, start relays, water valves, gaskets, control boards. Inside the sealed system it depends on where the leak is, since an evaporator behind the freezer panel or a condenser under the cabinet can be replaced, while tubing foamed into the cabinet walls cannot be reached, and a compressor with shorted windings on an older freestanding unit is usually where replacement wins.

Question 4

My garage refrigerator stopped cooling during the summer. Is that worth a service call?

Accepted Answer

Usually yes. A garage unit fights high ambient heat all day, so a dust-packed condenser coil or a tired condenser fan shows up as poor cooling out there long before the same problem would be noticed in the kitchen, and both are ordinary repairs. Before you call, confirm the outlet is live and that a tripped GFCI is not the whole story; if it checks out, same-day service is available when you call before 2 PM.

Question 5

How long does refrigerator repair usually take?

Accepted Answer

Most refrigerator repairs are completed in one visit. Diagnostic takes 20-30 minutes; the fix itself depends on the issue, usually 1-2 hours.

Question 6

How does the $75 diagnostic work?

Accepted Answer

Flat fee for a licensed tech to inspect the appliance and give you an upfront repair quote. No hidden charges.

Question 7

Do you work on built-in or luxury refrigerators?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We specialize in Sub-Zero, Viking, Thermador, Wolf, Miele, Bosch and other luxury brands — and built-in configurations.

Question 8

What if the repair costs more than replacement?

Accepted Answer

We'll tell you honestly if replacement is the smarter move. No incentive to push repairs that don't make sense.

Question 9

Do you warranty the work?

Accepted Answer

Yes — parts and labor. OEM parts where appropriate so the fix lasts.

Question 10

The freezer is fine but the milk is warm

Accepted Answer

The evaporator fan motor behind the freezer back panel has failed, or its blade is frozen against a frosted coil. Cold air is produced in the freezer and ducted to the fresh food side, so when that fan stops, the freezer holds temperature while the refrigerator climbs. We pull the freezer back panel, steam the coil clear, and check whether the motor actually failed or was only stalled by ice. If the coil was buried in frost, we test the defrost heater and the bimetal thermostat as well, because a new fan will not keep frost off by itself. Evaporator fan motors for the common brands ride on the van, so this one rarely needs a second trip.

Question 11

Water pooling under the crisper drawers

Accepted Answer

The defrost drain tube is clogged with debris or plugged solid with ice, and on models that have a drain tube heater, that heater has often quit. Meltwater from each defrost cycle backs up onto the cabinet floor instead of running down to the drain pan over the compressor. We thaw the tube, flush the line all the way through to the pan, and confirm water actually reaches it. On the models known for refreezing at the same spot, we install the factory drain clip that carries heat from the evaporator down into the tube so it stops plugging.

Question 12

It runs nonstop and the kitchen feels warmer

Accepted Answer

Either the condenser coils are packed with dust and pet hair, or the condenser fan motor has quit. Heat cannot leave the sealed system, so the compressor runs continuously without ever pulling the box down to temperature. We clean the condenser, then test the fan motor: it should spin freely by hand and draw close to the amp rating printed on its label. A motor that is seized, reads open across the windings, or pulls well above that rated draw gets replaced. Garage units and coastal homes see this one most, since ambient heat and salt air both work on the coil.

Question 13

Ice cubes come out small, hollow, or slow

Accepted Answer

Water is reaching the ice maker too slowly. The usual causes are a water filter loaded up with the mineral scale South Florida water leaves behind, a water inlet valve whose solenoid no longer opens fully, or a fill tube partly frozen because its heater failed. We check line pressure at the inlet valve, replace the filter or the valve, and clear the fill tube. Filters and inlet valves ride on the van, so you are usually making full cubes again before we pack up.

Question 14

Both compartments warmed up overnight and nothing is running

Accepted Answer

The compressor start relay and overload protector have failed, so the compressor never gets going. Many units click every few minutes as the overload trips and resets, and the whole cabinet drifts up to room temperature. Voltage sags during storm season are hard on these start components. We replace the relay and overload, then confirm the compressor itself by measuring winding resistance across the common, start, and run pins, checking that no winding is grounded to the shell, and reading amp draw at startup. If the relay was the failure, it is finished in one visit. Shorted or open windings mean the compressor is done, and that turns into a repair-versus-replace conversation rather than a parts swap.

Question 15

My refrigerator is not cooling — what could it be?

Accepted Answer

The usual suspects are a dirty or failed condenser coil, a dead evaporator fan, a faulty start relay, or low refrigerant from a sealed-system leak. Our tech isolates the exact cause in one visit — most cooling repairs are done the same day, and sealed-system work is handled under EPA 608 certification.

Question 16

Why is there ice buildup in my freezer?

Accepted Answer

Almost always a defrost-system failure: the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or control board has stopped running melt cycles. A blocked or torn door gasket can also let humid Florida air in. We carry defrost components on the truck — typically a one-visit fix.

Question 17

Why is water leaking under my fridge?

Accepted Answer

Nine times out of ten it's a clogged defrost drain line; the rest are a cracked drain pan or a leaking water-line fitting to the ice maker. We clear or replace the failed part and check the water line while we're in there.

Question 18

My fridge is making clicking or strange noises — is that serious?

Accepted Answer

Rapid clicking usually means the compressor start relay is failing — caught early, it's a cheap part; ignored, it can take the compressor with it. Rattling or grinding typically points to a condenser or evaporator fan motor. Worth a same-day call either way.

Question 19

My ice maker stopped working — can you fix it?

Accepted Answer

Yes — ice maker failures are daily work for us. South Florida's hard water scales the fill valve and clouds the optic sensor; the module itself also wears out. We replace the failed component and can add an inline filter to slow recurrence.

Question 20

The fridge door is not sealing properly — does it matter?

Accepted Answer

It matters a lot: a leaking gasket forces the compressor to run constantly, spikes your power bill, and ices up the evaporator. We replace door gaskets on all major brands, including built-in Sub-Zero panels.

Question 21

Why does my fridge have warm spots inside?

Accepted Answer

Uneven cooling usually means a failing evaporator fan, blocked air ducts from ice buildup, or a damper that no longer opens. The fix depends on which one it is — our $75 diagnostic pinpoints it and applies to the repair.

Services

Broward

Miami-Dade

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Same-Day Refrigerator Repair.
Broward & Miami-Dade.

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All major and luxury brands.

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Refrigerator Repair across Broward & Miami-Dade.

What actually breaks in a refrigerator.

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Same-Day Refrigerator Repair.Broward & Miami-Dade.